Detour is a popular theme for E17
There're two gtk+ ports but I think even QtCurve cannot mimic it.
It's no exact clone, but a Bespin interpretation, showing off the new inlay buttons ;-)
You need Bespin >= r1448 to do this,
then import the config:
"bespin import detour.bespin"
and load it
"bespin load Detour"
Or just use the config dialog GUI for this.